MoTint614-822-0494

Columbus, Ohio · 5220 Trabue Road, Suite D

Window tint
in Columbus.
$300 ceramic.

All around — every window but the windshield. Indoor bay, one piece on the back glass, the VLT label Ohio requires. Front doors go 50%. That’s the law, and you hear it from us before you pay, not from a cop after.

4.7 stars · 367 reviewsIndoor climate-controlled bayLifetime warranty options
Deep metallic blue Tesla Model Y with dark tinted glass all round, photographed in low golden sun
50% VLTFactory legal
Legal on every window in Ohio
Pick your filmAll around means every window except the windshield.
Ceramic Grade A· every window but the windshield
$300
Same price at 5% as at 35%. Darkness is free.
Ask about this shade

The part nobody explains

Dark and cool are two different things.

Heat is infrared. Darkness is visible light. They are not the same thing and film does not treat them the same way. Dyed film blocks light. It is cheap, it goes dark, and the infrared walks straight through it into your dashboard. Ceramic film has particles in it that are built to reject infrared, and it does that whether it is dark or not.

So here is the sentence the whole shop is built on: a legal 50% ceramic will block more heat than a cheap 20% dyed film. The 20% looks meaner in the parking lot. The 50% is the one that makes the steering wheel touchable in August.

Every summer somebody walks in and asks for 5% because his car is an oven. He is buying the wrong product. He wants infrared rejection and he is paying for darkness. We will sell you dark if you want dark — plenty of people just want privacy, and that’s a real reason. But do not let anyone tell you darker equals cooler. It does not, and the shop that says it does is either lying or has never measured anything.

What tint actually gives you: less heat, less glare coming off wet pavement at 6pm, a dash and seats that don’t bake and fade, and nobody reading your back seat at a red light. That’s the honest list. Everything else is a brochure.

The room your car sits in

Dust under film is permanent. That is the entire reason we install indoors with the door shut — not comfort, not looks.

The inside of the Mo Tint workshop: sealed concrete floor, overhead lighting, closed roller door, supply shelving, with a black Jeep Trackhawk parked in the middle
This is the room your car sits in. Door closed, floor sealed, film racked on the wall. Dust is what ruins a tint job — so we install indoors, every car, every time.
An installer's arm working a blue squeegee across the film on a grey Mercedes C-Class front door window, the MO TINT KING sign behind
Squeegee, film, patience. No shortcuts on the door glass.
Silver Toyota GR Supra in side profile with dark tinted glass, parked in front of the shop's roller bay doors and yellow awnings
Supra, tinted, still sitting in our bay doorway.

What it costs

Darkness is free.

A 5% and a 35% of the same film cost the same, because you are not paying for the shade — you are paying for what the film is made of.

FilmAll aroundHeatWhat you get
Carbon$200Est. — confirm w/ shopCuts someNo purple, no bubbles. Cuts glare and holds its colour.
Ceramic Grade A$300Our priceCuts moreThe one most people leave with. Real heat rejection, no signal interference.
Ceramic Grade A+$400Est. — confirm w/ shopCuts the mostThe most heat we can block. Worth it if you park outside all summer.

All around means every window except the windshield.The windshield is its own job and its own number — Ohio wants 70% light through up there, and the strip along the top isn’t regulated at all. Call for a number on that one, or read the windshield page.

Rear windows

The back glass is where you find out who tinted your car.

It curves in two directions at once. Flat film does not go on a double curve — it has to be heat-shrunk on the outside of the glass until it takes the shape, then brought inside and laid down in one piece. That is the part that takes a real installer, and it is the part a rushed shop fakes by cutting the film in half and seaming it down the middle. You can see that seam from the driver’s seat forever. We don’t do it.

Your defroster lines live on that glass. Stripping old film off them is slow work and slow is the only way they survive it. If your back window is purple and peeling, that comes off first — film, adhesive, all of it. Nobody lays new film over old film here.

The good news is Ohio doesn’t care how dark you go back there. Rear side windows and the rear window can be any darkness at all, as long as your car has both outside mirrors. So 5% in the back and 50% on the front doors is a completely legal car. That combination is what a lot of people actually wanted the whole time.

Rear three-quarter of a silver Toyota GR Supra with tinted windows, the shop's bay doors and yellow awning in the background
Their SupraRear glass, one piece

Straight answers

  • How long does it take?Longer than the guy quoting you forty-five minutes. The film gets cut, shrunk to your glass, and squeegeed dry, and the back window sets the pace for the whole job. Stripping old film off a car adds real time on top of that. We won’t publish a number we can’t hit on your specific car — call with the year, make and model and Ameer will give you the real window before you drive over. Plan your day around a drop-off, not a wait.
  • Does it bubble?For the first few days your windows may look hazy, with little water pockets in them. That is normal and it is not a bubble — it’s the mounting solution still drying between the film and the glass. Sun clears it. It clears faster in July than in February. Bubbles that turn up months later are a different animal: that is the adhesive letting go, which is a cheap-film problem, and it is exactly what the warranty is for. Purple film is the same story one year on.
  • When can I roll them down?Not on the drive home. We’ll tell you how long to leave them up for the film and weather you picked — ask at pickup and hold to it. Rolling a window down before the edge has bonded is the single easiest way to peel brand new film off your own car, and it is not a warranty claim, it’s a Tuesday.
  • What’s the warranty?Lifetime warranty options, and which one you get depends on the film you pick — it covers the film failing: bubbling, peeling, and turning purple. Ask us for the exact terms on your film before you pay, and make us say out loud what is and isn’t covered. If a shop won’t put the warranty in your hand in writing, that tells you what they think of the film they just sold you.
  • Can you do 20% on my front doors?No. Ohio puts that on the installer, not on you, and no waiver you sign moves it back. A shop that says yes is handing you a ticket and keeping your money. If it’s heat you’re chasing, go ceramic at 50% and you’ll beat that 20% dyed film anyway. The actual law, all of it →

If you searched “tint near me”

Here’s the answer instead of a map pin: we’re at 5220 Trabue Road, Suite D, Columbus, OH 43228, west side, in an indoor bay. Indoors matters more than distance. Tint is a dust job — a hair, a speck, one gust through an open door and it’s under your film for the life of the car. A driveway on a windy Saturday can’t win that fight no matter how good the installer is.

Cars come to us from Columbus, Hilliard, Dublin, Powell, Plain City, Upper Arlington and Worthington. Call the number below and Ameer picks up. Not a call centre, not a form that emails you back on Tuesday — the man who runs the shop, on the phone, telling you what your car costs.

Columbus
Hilliard
Dublin
Powell
Plain City
Upper Arlington
Worthington

Get it tinted.

$300 ceramic all around, legal on every window, warranty in writing. Bring the year, make and model.

5220 Trabue Road, Suite D, Columbus, OH 43228 · info@motintking.com

Start with the car

Tell us what you drive.

A year, make, model and the work you have in mind is enough to start. We’ll reply with the next useful question—not a canned sales pitch.

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Year, make and model

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